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Lake Atitlan!
Sunday, January 29th, 2012 /

Chels and I took the one “direct” chicken bus to Panajachel from Anitgua. “Direct” just means that it goes all the way there, not that it doesn’t stop for every person flagging it down.

Kinda looks like Greece!

When we arrived in Panajachel we dropped our bags off at the hostel and headed straight for the shore. We made the walk down the main street Calle Santander which is lined with restaurants, markets and tour agencies. Down at the waters edge, Panajachel offers a great view of the lake as you look out at three volcanos. This is the most impressive thing about Panajachel. In fact we didn’t really find Pana had much to offer. It has absolutely no character and you hardly know you’re at the lake, which is why we went.

Amazing view!

Across the lake is San Pedro. The tiny boat ride across offers stunning views and only cost 3 bucks! As soon as we stepped off the boat, we immediately loved it! The whole town is actually along the lake, so no matter where you eat, sleep or walk…you can see the lake (unlike Pana). It is also much cheaper, and you don’t get the feeling you’re being ripped off just for being a gringo! For example: In Pana, a trip to Copan Ruinas in Honduras costs 280 Q ($35) but from San Pedro, almost FURTHER away it was only 150 Q ($18.75)!  Anyway we found a nice quiet little family-run place to stay, Casa Elena, and it was only 8 bucks a night for a private room WITH a bathroom and hot water :)

Boat ride across Lake Atitlan

We immediately starting searching out the best deal for hiking Volcan de San Pedro at sunrise. We ended up going with Bigfoot Agency because the lady was straight up with us. If it’s just the 2 of us, its 20 bucks, it we find a 3rd person, its 15 bucks! SWEET…we set out to find a 3rd! We ended up finding like 6…2 different couples…all from our boat ride over, so got it even cheaper!
So 2:15 am the alarm goes off, and we eat our 2 loaves of banana bread we bought the night before. Brad drinks his cold coffee he also got the night before, and off we went! Our guide met us at our hostel and we started the journey, passing drunks along the way that were still out from the night before.

To the top just in time!

Just getting to the base of the volcano was tough, but the actual climb up was RIGOROUS! Everyone had head torches, except me haha…I followed the other hikers light and the moonlight…making sure to lift my knees high. About 3 1/2 hours later, we were ALMOST to the top and saw the light of day starting to emerge. Brad raced up to the top for the last 10 minutes, and I moaned and groaned my way up shortly behind him! I was actually MOL-ing (Moaning out Loud) it was TOUGH!!! We lost half of our group to the hill…. But oooooh man the view was INCREDIBLE !!!!! It was 100% worth the pain and the colors of the sky behind the other volcanoes were so bright and illuminating! We were cheering and high-fiving each other in complete elation! The entire lake was beneath us and in our view!

Breathtaking!

In the middle of our admiring, the cold hit! THANK GOD our guide was already building a fire, because it was frigid! Even worse for Brad was that he was completely soaked from sweat…his back and butt drenched! We warmed up for a few minutes while we waited for the sun to peek over the volcano tops, singing songs to help motivate its rise… “Here Comes the Sun”!

Warming up by the fire!

Yay Here Comes the Sun!

The others finally arrived after the sun rise, and we all chowed down on some grub! Peanut Butter Sandwiches and Snickers! Some people brought whole blocks of cheese up! After about an hour and a half on the summit, we decided to head down. The hike down was AWESOME! Now that it was light, we could see the beautiful lush green trees. It was like a tropical rainforest up there! Also we could enjoy the view of the other side of the lake, and all the towns sprawled along it. We were able to walk through a coffee farm and try a bean or two, careful as to not risk being shot for stealing their beans!! lol just kidding. We finished just after 11pm and were exhausted, so after grabbing a smoothie, went straight for a nap!

Tropical!

Woo we did it!

After deciding to stay one more day in this cute town, we spent it relaxing at a super cool hostel called “Zoola People”. It’s Israeli run, right along the lake with a colorful tent full of pillows and tables to chill at. Skyping, blogging, and researching…enjoying their delicious Health Sandwich packed full of avocado! Brad and I find we need one of those days every once in a while, because traveling can be EXHAUSTING! (not complaining!)

Zoola!

Next stop…Honduras!!

Category: Central America, Guatemala, Guesthouses, Hiking, Hostels, Lake Atitlan, Panajachel, San Pedro, Volcano  Tags: , , , ,  One Comment
Antigua!
Saturday, January 28th, 2012 /

When we left the next morning it was still dark outside. As we climbed up the bumpy mountain road, the sun was also making its way into the sky. When the day began to break, the heavy clouds that blanketed the sleepy towns below began to disperse, reavealing the green peaks and valleys; a quintessential Guatemalan sight. As the rest of the bus slept, I took in the breathtaking views one last time, then nodded off. Next stop, Antigua.

Typical Antigua!

The former capital of Guatemala (until a massive earthquake hit), is now a popular tourist destination and it’s easy to see why. Sitting at the base of dormant Volcan de Agua, the town is different from everywhere else in Guatemala we had previously visited. The European influence is omnipresent with the quaint colonial charm, cobble stone streets, lots of cafes and a neat central park.

Cathedral!

The best view of the city is from the Cerro de la Cruz. The walk is for people of all ages, paved steps the whole way and a police presence, making it safe to do on your own. When you reach the top be sure to check out the smoking Pacaya Volcano to the right and allow youself to imagine the possibility of an eruption!

Cerro de la Cruz!

Our experience in Antigua was great, complete with a couchsurfing host to boot. Love (pronouced Loov-eh), was our Sweedish host living in a sweet pad right near the central markets. He led us through the maze of narrow lanes, showing us a few great places to grab a cheap and delicious meal. Incredible as it is, also staying with Love was our friend Alex, whom we met all the way beck in Belize!

On our second day there, Love led us all on a crazy journey up to a surrounding town for a hike to a series of waterfalls. Getting there we hitchhiked in the back of an ambulance which was a first for all involved. The hike in was beautiful. Long groves of coffee plants leading up into the beautiful hills. Chels and I made it to the first waterfall and stopped there. A towering falls but no opportunity for swimming. The guys attempted a hike up the overgrown trail to the other ones while Chels and I had a chill out. We all hitched a ride home in time for a sunset browse at the market to get supplies for our guacamole and chip dinner.. Mmm Mmm good!

Back of the ambulance!!

The boys enjoying the Waterfall!

Antigua is a great town to just walk around, which is mostly what we did when we weren’t riding in the back of ambulances to far off waterfalls. Even though it’s gringo central, traditionally dressed women still roam the streets selling their hand made crafts; and there is no shortage of your prepackaged Mayan-goods markets.

Guatemala is so colorful!

The last night we were there we did a very American thing and got Chilly Cheese fries while watching Alabama beat up on LSU in the National Champoinship game. We redeemed ourselves later that night with a visit to Cafe No Se, a Mescal bar. The bar is a landmark, and modeled after a 1920s speak easy, with a secret door leading to the secluded bar. Mescal is a tequila-esq drink that is sipped and not nearly as harsh. We said our goodbyes to Love there and the next morning shipped off early to Panajachel on Lago de Atitlan!

American drinking night!

Mescal Bar!

Category: Antigua, Central America, CouchSurfing, Guatemala, Markets, Volcano  Tags: , , , ,  2 Comments
Semuc Champey!
Sunday, January 08th, 2012 /

Beautiful Semuc Champey!

Along the Guatemalan travel trail, fellow backpackers gaulk about the marvelous places they’ve been in this vibrant Central American country. A handful of places keep playing up like a broken record, and Semuc Champey is one of them. A natural phenomenon of aquamarine pools that, through years of erosion, rests on a limestone ledge hollowed out underneath by a raging river.
Part of Semuc Champey’s appeal is the journey there. It is isolated and the effort it takes to get there weeds out the traveler from the tourist, requiring a very uncomfortable ride from any direction down the rocky mountain road to the town of Lanquin. Once you arrive here you then have to arrange for a ride to Semuc Champey to claim natures reward.

Hitchhiking with the little Guatemalan girls!

We had the option of either staying in Lanquin or Semuc Champey. We chose Lanquin at this sweet hostel perched up on a hill surrounded by tall mountains and valleys..called Zephyr Lodge. A near 360 degree panoramic view of the landscape is available as you sit in one of the many swinging hammoks around the hostel. We actually ended up staying 3 nights longer than originally planned since it was such good vibes. (and we got the 4th night free! 5th day is Happy Hour all day!) It was a brilliant place to conveless as Chels and I were both getting over our stomachs introduction to Guatemala.

Amazing View!

Best shower ever!!

The hostel was great but just a small part of the overall experience. The feature presentation is Semuc Champey. It’s natural beauty transcends the cultural barriers as people from all parts of the world explore the jewel like pools. We feel, and other travelers have agreed, Semuc gives visitors an energy boost. You leave there with a pep in your step for the rest of that day. Maybe it’s the visual beauty, or maybe the pools have some magical healing properties; either way it was one hell of a place to celebrate the transition from my 25th to 26th trip around the sun!

Brad relaxing in the pools!

Category: Central America, Guatemala, Hostels, National Parks, Semuc Champey, Waterfall  Tags: , , , ,  2 Comments
Flores… y Tikal!
Thursday, January 05th, 2012 /

The ride out of Belize was easier than expected! We took a collectivo to the border where we were rushed with money changers in our face. We actually DID need to change our money and they are on top of it, with American/Guatemalan/Belizian dollars, and a calculator for your own ease. We payed our exit fee and continued on to Guatemalas border. As soon as they saw our American passports, they asked for an “entrance fee” of 20Q each (only about 3 bucks) OR…if you have 5 US each…you can pay that! Ok…we knew this was prob BS, but were willing to pay as long as we could have a recipt! …”Oh…they want a reciept” the guy muttered under his breath to the head lady, in which she proceeded to flip through our passports pretending to look for something, and then handed them back without us having to pay the fee! Hehe oh corruption!

Flores from above!

About an hour taxi ride later and we arrived in a cute little town located on an island in the middle of the lake, called Flores. I immediately loved it – the old uneven cobblestone streets lined with local shops selling colorful Guatemalan gear. Similar to India, the local women in Guatemala actually wear their traditional dress still on an everyday basis! We were staying in a private room in a quieter hostel called “Hospedaje Yaxha” where you can take Spanish classes or eat at their cafe downstairs. Around the corner though was “Los Amigos”, the fun and colorful hostel with a cool garden full of hammocks…we moved there a couple days later!

Los Amigos!

On our way to the only ATM working on the island, we ran into Alex and Outti, our friends we met in Bullet Tree, and immediately organized a reunion dinner in town. Crazily enough, on our way to dinner, we ran into Stav, the other guy we were with in Bullet Tree, so he tagged along and it was one big CS reunion :) Super cheap dinner at the markets in the central square alongside an AMAZING Christmas Tree that lights up as it blares our the theme song to 2001 A Space Oddysey! Haha it was hilarious! Then, along with some other hostel friends, we all enjoyed beers at what became our favorite local spot in town! 3 beers for 15Q (2 bucks)!

Awesome Tree!

Couchsurfers!!

The main reason to visit Flores is as a stopping point to see the famous Mayan Ruins at Tikal. We woke up at 4am to catch the 4:30 shuttle to the ruins an hour away to be there for the park opening. 100% worth waking up, as you can be one of the only ones in the park if you skip the long-line for coffee and breakfast at the cafe they drop you at when you arrive. Unfortunately you cannot climb Temple II, the most famous image of Tikal. It really is just so steep..tourists are bound to slip and fall.

Tikal!

Awesome Moss!

What was recommended to us, and what we will also recommend, is to head straight to the back of the park to Temple IV, the highest temple that towers up above the rainforest canopy. It will most likely by super misty and foggy, but as the sun keeps rising, the fog slowly melts away to uncover the other temples sprouting out through the jungle. The mix of ruins with lush green trees, howling monkeys and talkative birds makes for a mystical experience. You beat the crowds first thing too!

Temple IV lookout!

Category: Central America, Hostels, National Parks  Tags: , , ,  One Comment
Bullet Tree Falls!
Wednesday, January 04th, 2012 /

It was getting close to Christmas time, accommodations were booking up and we had a need for community.  What better place to look than CouchSurfing?  We had lined up a host in Bullet Tree Falls which is just a ten minute drive outside San Ignacio.

Bob Marley rock

San Ignacio  is a popular tourist destination within central Belize close to the Guatemalan border, most famous for the cave explorations, jungle treks and waterfall gazing.  We took the local bus from Belize City which stops for anyone along the way and then a collectivo from San Ignacio to Bullet Tree.  Our instructions from Aiden, CouchSurfing host, was to exit at the market, get some food then make the 400 yard dash down the dirt road to his property.

Palapa

As we rolled up to the barbed-wire gate of this property we began to wonder if we were in the right place, but we followed his very thorough directions to a T.  As it turns out we were in the right place.  A gorgeous and secluded four acre estate lush with Jamaican lime and orange trees.  It was green everywhere we looked and blending into the grounds were two cabanas and a Palapa (thatched roofed hut) at the center.  The land backed right into the Macal river.  There was a dock which just by standing on it you felt at ease, but we couldn’t get too comfortable because busy in the trees above iguanas rustled; and at any point if they felt threatened, could drop.  If that wasn’t entertaining enough, a rope swing hung from a nearby tree.

Crazy Orange Iguanas!!

Chels on the rope swing

The property was amazing, but even cooler was the slew of other CouchSurfers staying at his place.  Most with tents, some in hammocks.  There was no electricity so every night we had to build a fire and eat by candle light.  Even though it was just a short walk to the grocery store, we felt isolated and loved it.  Knowing we could just fall back to Aiden’s place and tune out.  Instead of spending the evenings browsing the internet or watching television we got to know one another, swapping stories from the road laughing and genuinely enjoying each others company.

Men!

For Christmas Day, our plan was to have a big breakfast and then dinner. After Aiden showed us the ropes of how to get his wood-fire stove going, we were all able to contribute in some way.  Some people preparing food; some stoking fires; some cooking and others doing dishes, forging a well oiled machine when it came time to eat.  We had found our little community and it was the next best thing to a family we could have hoped for the holiday.

Massive Fruit Salad on Christmas Morning

We ended up staying five nights and got to experience a few places around San Ignacio that were off the beaten tourist trail. Aiden’s neighbor Marcus, who was also a CouchSurfer took us around in his shaky four wheel drive through the back roads to a couple of beautiful waterfalls. He also let us borrow some of his inner tubes and we all (dogs included) had a lazy float down the river.

Double Back-flips

Lazy river tour

The only negatives were battling the pesky biting ants that left me swollen and itchy for a few days.  Also I did have a brief encounter with Chechem poisonwood which, thanks to a baking soda/water mixture that Chelsea spread all over me and Benedryl, went away after one very uncomfortable night.  It’s all part of the experience and we’re lucky to look back and laugh!  

Thank goodness for baking soda

Category: Belize, Bullet Tree Falls, Camping, Central America, CouchSurfing, Waterfall  Tags: , , , ,  One Comment
Caye Caulker
Tuesday, January 03rd, 2012 /

Even just saying the name melts the tension away, Belize. The first thing you should do upon arrival is take off the watch and ease into the pace. Leave your stress on the plane because this is a place for going slow. Especially on Caye Caulker, in fact that is the motto of the small island, “go slow”.. and they mean it!

The Split!

Getting there was a costly affair though. I recomend splitting a taxi from the airport to Belize City because the cost runs at about $50BLZ ($25). Our driver dropped us off right at the water taxi and after a short wait we packed into the medium sized boat headed for Caye Caulker.

The ride was only about 40 minutes, but packed to the max with tourists and locals alike, and as soon as we stepped off the boat, we were loving the vibe! No cars, just bicycles and…golf carts haha! Everything was so colorful, rastas everywhere! Ya Mon!

Love the colors!

We found our hostel, “Bella’s” which we were actually camping at for just under 8 bucks a night! It was pretty run down, but safe and it seemed to be cool! Everyone was hanging around the kitchen and common area. What was cool during the day ended up being super aggravating at night…but I guess we can’t complain too much! Actually they let you use their canoe for free too, so Brad and I took it out for a sunset rum cruise :)

Rum for Sunset! :)

After setting up the tent, we hit “The Split”, which is the part of Caye Caulker that used to be island, but is now ocean after a bad hurricane hit! It’s got a very chill vibe, with reggae music playing from an open hut bar that sits in between the 2 hang out spots – a hard gravel beach, or a jetty that everyone lounges around! The water is SO beautiful and clear blue!

The Split!

That was basically our time spent in Caye Caulker… riding our bikes around the tiny island, enjoying the sun at the split, and chilling at the hostel with new friends! Very appropriate for the island…laid back!

Category: Beaches, Belize, Camping, Caye Caulker, Central America, Hostels, Islands  Tags: , , , ,  One Comment
San Diego
Monday, January 02nd, 2012 /

We were sad to leave the Hawaiian islands, but then again who wouldn’t be?  Our next destination was San Diego, first time back on mainland US in nearly 2 years and it was my old roommate Greer that welcomed us back!

Catching up in the Gas Lamp district

She was awesome, her job as a concierge at the Hotel Del Coronado scored us some sweet looks at the historic landmark as well as some free passes to activities around town.  Greer must be really good at her job because she made us feel so welcome and comfortable during our stay.

Me and Gee

We had plans on meeting Kelly in San Diego but since we were both flying into LAX (and Kelly renting a car) Chels decided to meet up with her and catch a ride while I flew in and caught up with Greer.

Group before Torrey Pines

Greer took us around on our second day to Torrey Pines, which she describes as a typical San Diego activity.  It was a laid back hiking trail that started from the enormous beach and weaved up through the rocks and finished with a sweet view overlooking the Pacific.  We watched the sunset cartwheeling on the beach and headed out that night for some cheap and delicious Mexicali.

Cartwheels for Sunset

Most of our time here was spent sampling the local fare!  We had Mexican; Sushi; visited a warehouse full of fresh produce; enjoyed mouthwatering local craft brews; ordered an entire meal via ipad and of course sampled the most famous California fast food chain – In and Out.

"Incredible Desserts"

One of the highlights of our San Diego experience was ice skating on the beach at the Hotel Del, complements of Greer.  The rink was set up with an ocean view, under the Christmas Lights.  It was a great atmosphere, perfect for that time of year.

How romantic

On our last day Chels and I checked out the USS Midway.  I highly recommend this to any traveler passing through.  San Diego has a large navel base so it’s appropriate to check out the massive aircraft carrier.  The best parts was sitting in the fighter-plane cockpits and examining the air crafts up on the flight deck.  Powerful machines that make you appreciate times of peace!

Yikes

It was great seeing Greer again and catching up with Kelly!  Big Thanks to Gee for letting us crash and being an AMAZING host!!

I recognize this scene

Category: Beaches, Cities, San Diego, USA  Tags: , ,  One Comment
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