Machu Picchu

The remarkable city of Machu Picchu represents the pinnacle of Incan civilization, an extraordinary example of 15^th century engineering and will power which has enticed tourists since its discovery in the early 1900’s. However, to the Inca and Peruvians it remains a sacred shrine to the days of true independence, before the Spanish conquest and disease that brought down this once great civilization. Although the Spanish never documented discovering Machu Picchu, the site was abandoned around the time of their invasion. It stands today as the shining example of the Inca people, shrouded in mystery 8000ft into the clouds that guard it.

Above the clouds

There are several, well documented routes to the city of Machu Picchu. Having to forgo the Inca trail  due to seasonal closures, we opted to train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Caliente. This particular course is very popular among backpackers, due to the overall low cost compared to the more expensive journey from Cuzco.

Peru Rail

Peru Rail dropped us into Aguas Caliente at night, and above the loud chatter of the hundreds of tourists we could hear the raging river that slices through the city. There is a booming tourism industry in Aguas. Restaurants compete for your business as you walk the crowded streets; realizing the validity of what every guide book says about the place – tourist trap!Â

Just know that going in. Certainly don’t treat every shop owner and hostel clerk as such, but be prepared to hold ground if you feel like you’re getting ripped off.

Our plan was to rise early and catch the first bus up to the city. Many travelers, plus guide books suggest getting there first thing, before the masses arrive from Cusco. We had pre-bought our tickets through the Peruvian bureau of tourism’s website, which to our dismay was still working out the kinks. Armed with what we thought were passes to enter the site, we headed down to the bus stop at 4:30am. We were about the 10^th group in line and liked our chances of being the first group at the site this morning.

About 5:30 they started boarding the bus and as we get to the ticket lady, I go to hand her exact amount of soles needed to ride and we are quickly escorted out of line and told to buy our tickets at the tiny kiosk 50 meters up the road. As it turns out, despite us asking several times, you must buy your bus ticket before you board! So, as it turned out we ended up boarding the seventh bus instead of the first, but were still optimistic about seeing the ruins not overrun with tourists.

We get to the top after the nerve racking ride up the unpaved, semi collapsing road to the top. As we exit we rush straight to the entrance. I hand the woman our passports and tickets, she scans them and looks up at us but didn’t need to say anything, because I already knew. Your tickets are not valid. We had missed the tiny detail on the bottom of our tickets that read “no pagan” – not paid. Most places would let you buy tickets at the entrance, but not here which we knew from every guide book.  We had to go back down and buy our passes in Aguas Caliente. Upset and humiliated we decided to forgo the $10 bus ride and walk back down and about halfway down, it began to downpour.

When we finally sorted it all out, what ensued was a picture taking frenzy and amazement. As you look

out at the surroundings and you realize the randomness of the city, curiosity is peaked – how did they build all this up here? What was it for? Chel’s and I walked around, speculating: A vacation getaway for the Inca elite, perhaps.

Central Costa Rica - Santa Elena

This is a country where Chels and I could spend months. All of the things I previously mentioned are exactly what get our juices flowing, but as I also mentioned it’s expensive. Unfortunately because of our tight budget we were forced to choose only one cool thing for our ten days on the Rich Coast. After much deliberation and consideration we went with Monteverde’s Cloud Forest.

Art Gallery in Santa Elena

The town of Monteverde is mostly protected forest so the majority of visitors stay in the neighboring town of Santa Elena, but getting here is no short trip. Set 1400 meters (4600ft) above sea level the roads into town are mostly unpaved and wind through the gorgeous countrysides peaks and vallys. Santa Elena is a small but friendly village with a mountain-town feel and upon arrival we were reminded of what we came for. A large electronic billboard advertises videos of bungee jumping, tarzan swinging, canyoning and ziplining seducing the adventourus. With a number of available activities to choose from we had to make yet another tough decision.

Sloth Backpackers

Sloth Backpackers was our hostel of choice. It was just outside of the hustle and bustle in town, and offered a really cute and cozy atmosphere. Run by 2 sisters, they help you organize anything you want from tours to tranport. The breakfast is delicious and legitimate compared to some of the bread and jam breakfasts other hostels offer. The only complaint was that man…MARK YOUR FOOD! The second you leave the kitchen with ANY item unmarked (even salt, oil, dressing!) the sisters grab it up and lock it in their cupboard. We lost out on our butter and popcorn because of their well..greed.

DUO about to fly

Under the recomendation of passing travellers and Kelly we narrowed it down to ziplining (canopy tour) and canyoning. Canyoning is sort of deceptive in it’s name because from what I can tell, involves no canyons. Basically you absail down eleven flowing waterfalls – pretty excellent but comes with a price tag of $50. The other option, ziplining, is probably how the area became famous amoung backpackers and is the most popular. A series of 20 odd platforms strung together with metel cables takes you on a wild tour of the cloud forest offering some great views at high speeds; all for around $45.

Good to Go

At first we decided on doing both, but our bank accounts had the final say and we ended up choosing the zipline canopy tour. Out of the serveral companies that offer this we went with EXTREMO because they have the fastest and longest lines. They arranged a pick up from our hostel and provided/dressed us up in the required gear once you’re there. After a quick demonstration of the essentials: what to do if you get stuck; how to slow down/stop; ect., we were off. They start you off light; a couple of short ones before you get hooked on for a big one. The day we went the wind was howling and it was raining. In these circumstances you pair up with someone on long lines so that you don’t get stuck in the middle. So together, Chels and I whizzed 800 meters over Monteverde’s famous cloud forest!

zipline action

..more zipline

Now they call this a canopy tour but lets face it, it’s about the ziplining. I guess a few times we were able to appreciate they beautiful scenery around us, but it was more of an ancillary benefit than the focus.

Suspension Bridge!

After about 12 or 13 cables and a speedy repel , they let you experience the “Tarzan Swing”…and it’s scary!! All of a sudden, they are attaching all these cables to you, tell you to squat…and before you know it, you’re being pushed off the edge and start falling before it turns into a huge swing across the canopy! It is AWESOME! !! What a rush. Brad swung out so high that he almost hit a tree! To catch you, they throw a big rubber inflatable out in front of you to hold you in while they un-hook you!

Tarzan stopper!

After we watch everyone scream and laugh until they cry on the swing, we set out on a hike to the top of the canopy where we are set to experience the much-anticipated “Superman”. This was a highlight simply because of the length of the zipline that allowed you to truly appreciate the beauty below you! They connect you from your back, pull each foot up into a harness behind you, and away you go…face-down like superman for a kilometer .. flying over a beautiful valley of lush green below!

Flying!!

coming in for the landing

Afterwards, with everyones adrenaline pumping, they give you the option to experience the MEGA-Tarzan Swing or Bungee Jump! It would have been tempting if it weren’t for finances, but now we have

something to look forward to next time we visit Costa Rica

EXTREME!!!

If it is one thing that Monteverde’s tour companies do well that is combining nature with adventure. We could have spent all ten days here just trying out all the crazy stunts you can pull, if time and budget would have allowed. No doubt we’ll be back one day, with wads of cash, ready to raise the heartrate a few bpm!

Beautiful sunset!

We stayed in Pacha Mama, a very gringo hostel but with a great chilled-out environment right by the beach, AND a pancake breakfast with free coffee all-day long (Brad’s heaven?!)

We checked out some stellar sunsets on the beach there, played some football, and of course watched the superbowl. WOn’t mention the outcome…except that, that was the night we cut all of Brad’s locks off with a pair of cheap paper scissors haha! A LITTLE…under the influence. Turned out surprisingly nice though!

Beautiful locks! :)

All the hair!

All gone!

Soon enough, we began our terror journey to Costa Rica. First step, bus ride to Rivas….easy! Hop on another bus to the border town…easy! THEN, we get in line at the border….what turned into 3 grueling hours in the heat. First we get in a line in the sun just to pay this border town a small fee to get through the gate to the actual immigration. Then we hop in this MASSIVE line that seems to move so slow that its moving backwards. Probably because it practically was…we were getting cut left and right by locals. We found out that there are actually professional line-cutters that get paid to cut the line, and then bring the group of people up! grrrr!

Eventually we got through, paid our tax, and walked 1km or so at noon across to the Costa Rican immigration, which we thought would be much more civilized. NOPE…even worse line cutters. In fact,

at one point Brad blocked the way of these guys trying to move up in line in front of us, and then the guy behind us pushed in front, then the guy behind him…and so on! It was GREAT..everyone was standing up to this line-cutter because of Brad’s inititative!

Crossing the border!

We get stamped for 10 days and on the (much nicer) bus to Liberia! FINALLY! Our plan was to make it to Montezuma, but after a 3 hour delay at the border… that wasn’t happening, so we stayed in Liberia the night and worked out our next move! Already though, we noticed a huge difference in Costa Rica. While sitting in the main square in town, we noticed kids playing…riding their skateboards, running around, texting on their cellphones! NOT trying to sell us everything and anything under the sun…it was refreshing after 2 months of fighting off these poor kids everywhere else.

So with only 10 days in beautiful Costa Rica, we knew we were going to enjoy them! Pura Vida!

Beautiful Semuc Champey!

Along the Guatemalan travel trail, fellow backpackers gaulk about the marvelous places they’ve been in this vibrant Central American country. A handful of places keep playing

up like a broken record, and Semuc Champey is one of them. A natural phenomenon of aquamarine pools that, through years of erosion, rests on a limestone ledge hollowed out underneath by a raging river.
Part of Semuc Champey’s appeal is the journey there. It is isolated and the effort it takes to get there weeds out the traveler from the tourist, requiring a very uncomfortable ride from any direction down the rocky mountain road to the town of Lanquin. Once you arrive here you then have to arrange for a ride to Semuc Champey to claim natures reward.

Hitchhiking with the little Guatemalan girls!

We had the option of either staying in Lanquin or Semuc Champey. We chose Lanquin at this sweet hostel perched up on a hill surrounded by tall mountains and valleys..called Zephyr Lodge. A near 360 degree panoramic view of the landscape is available as you sit in one of the many swinging hammoks around the hostel. We actually ended up staying 3 nights longer than originally planned since it was such good vibes. (and we got the 4th night free! 5th day is Happy Hour all day!) It was a brilliant place to conveless as Chels and I were both getting over our stomachs introduction to Guatemala.

Amazing View!

Best shower ever!!

The hostel was great but just a small part of the overall experience. The feature presentation is Semuc Champey. It’s natural beauty transcends the cultural barriers as people from all parts of the world explore the jewel like pools. We feel, and other travelers have agreed, Semuc gives visitors an energy boost. You leave there with a pep in your step for the rest of that day. Maybe it’s the visual beauty, or maybe the pools have some magical healing properties; either way it was one hell of a place to celebrate the transition from my 25th to 26th trip around the sun!

Brad relaxing in the pools!

The Split!

Getting there was a costly affair though. I recomend splitting a taxi from the airport to Belize City because the cost runs at about $50BLZ ($25). Our driver dropped us off right at the water taxi and after a short wait we packed into the medium sized boat headed for Caye Caulker.

The ride was only

about 40 minutes, but packed to the max with tourists and locals alike, and as soon as we stepped off the boat, we were loving the vibe! No cars, just bicycles and…golf carts haha! Everything was so colorful, rastas everywhere! Ya Mon!

Love the colors!

We found our hostel, “Bella’s” which we were actually camping at for just under 8 bucks a night! It was pretty run down, but safe and it seemed to be cool! Everyone was hanging around the kitchen and common area. What was cool during the day ended up being super aggravating at

night…but I guess we can’t complain too much! Actually they let you use their canoe for free too, so Brad and I took it out for a sunset rum cruise

Rum for Sunset! :)

After setting up the tent, we hit “The Split”, which is the part of Caye Caulker that used to be island, but is now ocean after a bad hurricane hit! It’s got a very chill vibe, with reggae music playing from an open hut bar that sits in between the 2 hang out spots – a hard gravel beach, or a jetty that everyone lounges around! The water is SO beautiful and clear blue!

The Split!

That was basically our time spent in Caye Caulker… riding our bikes around the tiny island, enjoying the sun at the split, and chilling at the hostel with new friends! Very appropriate for the island…laid back!

As a powerful drifting trio, we cruised into Kuala Lumpur at about 4:30am. It was still dark and the taxi totes were on us as we made our way off the bus, which seemed to have dropped us off at a city bus stop, as opposed to a depot. Still sleepy and not knowing exactly where we were, it would have been easy to get disoriented and opt for the taxi; it also would have cost us about 120 ringgit ($40). But since Chels and I were becoming pro’s at this 4am, pitch black, sleepy drop off thing, we collected ourselves, crossed the street and boarded the 2 ringgit city bus which was to drop us off right in Chinatown (if we knew where that was). When we all were feeling like we were in the area we wanted to be we hopped off (usually the bus drivers are really friendly and tell us but not this early), plus there was a McDonald’s. I don’t know about other travelers but the sight of a McDonald’s when sort of lost in a foreign country gives me an easy feeling.Â

Nice view!

We needed to sort out accommodation and since it was the only place with internet that was open And serving breakfast, we indulged. We scarfed down food, cleaned up in the bathroom and semi-sorted where we would get accommodation. As we were leaving the ladies had a creepy crazy guy following us which had to be told to bug off. Guess they don’t see too many blondes or something.Â

Knowing that we

didn’t have long in the city we figured a hostel could be sorted later. We stashed our bags at the nearest place that would have them and headed for the most famous landmark in Kuala Lumpur, Petronas Towers.Â

Famous Petronas Towers!

We rushed to get there because they stop selling tickets for the viewing floor at the top around 10am. Unfortunately they close the top on Monday’s and we just happened to be there on one. They were still a sight to see and hard to even fit properly into a photo. There was a mega mall inside that was nicer than Lenox or Fipps Plaza…all high end fashion shops. The bathrooms were the cleanest we had seen all trip! I wanted to hang around just so

i could go in there again I felt cleaner after I had been in there! Poor Ashley was probably loving the shopping, but Brad and I were heavily avoiding shopping….sorry Ash Bash! We walked around a bit before taking off to figure out our next move.

The rest of the day was spent cruising through the shops of China town and finding accommodation. We had read about a few places in Lonely Planet in the China town area and the spot we ended up choosing looked abandoned and rundown from the outside, but was truly a hidden gem. Wheelers It was a smaller hostel but had just what we were looking for, cheap rates, a private room for the 3 of us…breakfast… and Ashley shelled out the extra money for AIR CONDITIONING!!! Wooo we hadn’t had that in ages! SCORE!

KL was a bit of a different destination that what Brad and I were now set of visiting. After exploring Europe for 6 months, we were OVER the cities, and ready for jungles and beaches…so although I am sure there is TONS of amazing things to do, and of course, AMAZING shopping, we didn’t actually do or buy much!~ We did check out the Batu Caves, which were easy to get to…just outside of the city. The train ran straight there, and after walking up decently steep stairs, and heavily avoiding the monkeys!!!!… we were given a nice view of the city in the distance, but were able to enjoy some natural beauties at the same time!

The view from the caves!

Ashley held a snake!! Very cool, i was tempted, but just jumped in the photo instead! The actual cave was nothing special, but still easy to appreciate. The middle opened up, with clear sky above us, and a small temple covered with monkeys shined in the light!

Snakes!!

We visited a few botanical gardens, considered checking out a huge bird sanctuary, and of course browsed through heaps of markets. Actually we stumbled upon an orchid garden and both bought our Mum’s some Orchids in a jar….which i think turned out to be total FAILS! I know my Mums did…!Â

Orchid Garden

I think one of the highlights for Ash and myself was getting ancient Indian body art…Mehndi, or Henna as most know it, or I think it’s called Inai in

Malaysia… on our hands! It was so incredible watching how quickly and easily this woman did it, but when she was finished, it looked like such a work of art! I had wanted to get one on the streets in India, but never found any, so i was super thrilled! I think she only charged 10-15 ringgit! (5 bucks max!) We were starving, and poor Brad waited so patiently for us girls, so we ducked into a food hall right next to us, and very appropriately grabbed…. Indian food.

Mehndi!

The next morning, we all left with excitement running through us, because Bali was our next stop and the place all 3 of us had been waiting for!

Cheapy Cheap!

I think Chelsea and I both agree that our time in Budapest was less about wandering around the city, discovering cool, exciting things to snap photos of and marvel over but about chilling out and preparing ourselves for our two weeks in India!

We thought we had a CouchSurfer lined up for the entire length of our stay but when we failed to connect the first day we were no longer sure. Lucky for us he lived in the same building as a cheap hostel, where we would bed down for the next two nights.

The first morning we woke up with a purpose, attain our Indian visas. Now, we had been putting this task off for the entire six months in Europe, praying that our research was right and we could apply for the visa at our port of exit to India. The processing takes three days and the embassy only excepts applications between the hours of 10am-12pm, Monday – Thursday. It was Wednesday and if we didn’t get there this day, we were screwed! Needless to say we woke up stressed to find the embassy and get it done.

Chain Bridge

Three quarters of the way through our cups of coffee and halfway out the door, our CouchSurfer, Gyuri comes wobbling in to our hostel. He is a good looking guy and well spoken so I guess I would say he has charisma! You could talk to him about anything from US monetary system to Scientology, and we did. BUT, not on this morning.

Once we had the Indian Visa situation taken care of (and realized there was no way for a Russian transit one) we felt like we could relax and take in Budapest. Our host Gyuri was a really interesting guy, probably one of the most unique individuals we’ve ever had the pleasure of meeting. He had heaps of advice about traveling in India and Southeast Asia and we swapped stories about touring Europe and America. Like I mentioned earlier, he is a guy that could talk about anything so conversation flowed super easy laying the groundwork for a quickly formed friendship.

Playmate party!

He taught us about the national sport of Hungary… sneaking in to places (or getting in for free). Of course Chels and I were all about the price of free but when it came to hopping fences to get into a mineral bath we took a pass. Riding the tram and bus without tickets, dodging the conductors was enough of a thrill for us and as much risk as we were willing to take. A highlight of our “sneaking in” experiences with Gyuri was when we somehow scored VIP to the Playboy Playmate of the Year Party at this uber cool night club. The place was packed with people, especially for the strip-tease show at the end.

Strip tease!

This girl apparently was a famous Hungarian porn star (The OTHER National sport of Hungary), and an amazing stripper, opening her own place, and teaching girls ha! She’s pretty old now in the face, but rocked a great bod….and put on a fabulous show!

The next day we finally caught up with Courtney, ready for this…Brad’s mom’s co-workers daughter! haha! It was cool to have a mutual soon-to-be-friend to meet up with in another country! We met at St.Stephens Basilica, which is MASSIVE and beautifully placed in a big square with lots to do and see around it….it’s the center of attention!

Gorgeous!

Underground!

After eating at a yummy Italian restaurant where it was soooo nice to have a delicious Caesar Salad…. Courtney and her friend took us to this “underground pub” called Szimpla. This place reminded us of the festival put on by the squatting community in Amsterdam… lots of Art and what might be considered junk…turned into something funky and fun. Apparently there are a few places like this in Budapest; they are called ROMKOCSMA or “ruin pubs” because the buildings had no use any longer. Anyway, we loved it..super cool AND they brewed their own beer!

The next few days Brad and I spent relaxing, wandering the city, picking up our visa (yay!), having a picnic in the park which Brad completely organized Gyuri also took us to the flea markets one morning which turned out to be great timing, because there was a massive marathon happening in the same area. I’ve never been to one, so it was cool to see the hundreds and hundreds of people preparing, and all the commotion and excitement going on!

Before we knew it, it was almost time to leave Budapest. But not before meeting Courtney’s Dad! It just so happened he was coming into town while we were there, so it was great to meet Jeanne’s coworker and get some juicy stories on her It all turned out to be good of course! He treated us to a meal and the conversation flowed. Thanks again Richard

Next stop: India!!

Brothers!

Brewery!

We hoofed it to the brewery Brouweij’t IJ, a favorite watering hole for locals. Located next to an old windmill, the brewpub opens in the late afternoon and closes early evening thanks to a high demand for its specialty brews. The inside was lined with beer bottles and behind the bar was a glass window allowing a view of where all the magic goes down. Chris taught us the ins and outs of blackjack as we enjoyed some of the best beer I’ve ever had!

Another reason we chose to visit the brewery on this particular day was for the free tour.. which we took full advantage of, but mine was cut short on account of me already “breaking the seal” . At some point we realized how strong the beers were (between 7 – 11%) and headed back to the hostel, devouring snacks along the way.

Tight alleyway….

A brief nap and a rally cry got us moving towards the infamous red light district. There are no warning signs when you enter the area, nobody waving a flag telling you there are half naked hookers swimming in windows up ahead. So, literally all of a sudden you make a turn down a side street and Bam! It’s funny and sad at the same time. I suppose most of the women choose to be there; they even have a union called the De Rode Draad in Dutch or “The Red Thread”. Although there ARE some girls who do it for drugs or against their will. Nevertheless, the reason it is not illegal, is actually for deterrence purposes. By permitting prostitution (among other things) they hope to avoid forcing it underground or to the black market where violence and abuse is rampant. Probably better to have it as an isolated, contained issue than a non regulated and destructive problem.

hmmm…had a few!

Call girls are the main attraction to the Red Light District, but sex is sold on other levels in and around those few glowing city blocks. “Live sex shows” (yes, it is exactly what it sounds like) and various sex shops ranging from classy to down and dirty are there for those of us who just enjoy the novelty of the area. And of course there are coffee & smart shops every 10 feet. The ratio of men to women, naturally, is heavy on the men side which makes it a bit awkward as you’re squeezing through these narrow alleyways. Without saying much more, the Red Light District is.. truly a unique experience.

Red Light

Joe came the next morning and we decided it would be fun to rent some bikes for the day! Cruising around Amsterdam on a bicycle is the best way to see the city. Since Chels and I had done this before and loved it, we thought it would be cool for Chris and Joe. It is also a great way to participate in the culture. After touring the streets for a bit we hit up Vondlepark for some snacks, a nap and a photoshoot.

Riding through Vondel park

Relaxation station!

Since we had bikes now we thought about what the next move should be… Brewery!! We went back to the Brouweij’t IJ. But we really DID have a good reason to go back! I was SURE i left my beloved scarf there that Kelly got me for Christmas! I was sending off good vibes the whole ride there, and it WAS!!! The sun was shining and the place was packed, good vibes all around. The brewery makes 6 different beers and being such big fans (not to mention the great prices) we tried every single one; then rode home, taking back roads of course. I left my umbrella there…hahah…boo.

Chels and I were to catch our final busabout ride from Amsterdam to Berlin the next morning, so we had an early night after one last stroll through the Red Light District. Up at 6:45, and at the Flying Pig Hostel (drop off/pick up point) in plenty of time for a good seat on the bus.

As we stood in the middle of this tiny cobble stone street in front of the hostel, we had a funny feeling we might not be in the right place. Well, turned out that the Busabout uses the OTHER Flying Pig Hostel for pickup. After 3 failed attempts to catch a taxi, we gave up and found the nearest internet point, booked a Eurolines bus for that night then went back to take advantage of the free breakfast at Chris and Joe’s hostel.

We rode around in the rain all day, mixing sight seeing with lots of coffee! The last place we stopped was a bar playing some NFL games, and we watched the Patriots pummel the Bengals (WooHoo!) We left Chris and Joe there, reminding them of the 6:50, morning train they had to catch and we rode off.

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