Tag-Archive for » Guatemala «

ChiChi(castenango)
Thursday, February 02nd, 2012 /

As avid market-goers and lovers, when we found out Central America’s largest markets were just a chicken bus away…we HAD to go! Thursdays and Sundays every week. Chichicastenango was the destination, and Panajachel was the hub (for tourists at least). Every single tourist agency (there are a LOT in Pana) advertised a shuttle ride there, but for $12 U.S. dollars!!! WHAT!?! Total rip off. Brad and I were certain we could do it for cheaper, and that we did! It turned out to not only help out our wallets, but it gave us a very authentic Guatemalan experience too!

Brad's new poncho!

Brad and I woke up early to give ourselves plenty of time to find our way around the chicken busses. For those who are wondering what in the world a chicken bus is, it’s an OLD American school bus that the locals travel in throughout the country In Guatemala especially, they are decorated to the MAX! I mean all sorts of colors, advertisements, Jesus stickers! It’s GREAT!

Chicken Bus!

Well finding the correct bus was NOT a problem in the least. The locals are super helpful and very vocal about where they’re going. As the bus pulls up, the fare collector is yelling out “ENCUENTROS” “CHICHI”… and we yell back “ChiChi???” to double check and he then immediately rushes us in while the bus is still rolling! Only 5 Q or about 60 cents for the first half of the trip. We get off the chicken bus in Los Encuentros and immediately get ushered over to the bus to Chichi! WELL there is NO mistake that you’re on the right bus because it is PACKED!! I mean we were hanging out the door when we first got on and eventually climbed over bunches of families and made our way to the back. It was HOTT, crowded…we were definitely the only “Gringos” or white people…but it was fun!! And again…only 5 Quetzal and they dropped us off right at the market entrance and we were good to go :)

Standing on the Chicken Bus!

The markets are a massive maze of traditional Mayan goods, mixed with food vendors and practical goods. On either end are 2 churches that you can go inside and take a look at, although photography is PROHIBITED inside! All along the steps outside, women are selling flowers, and when you go inside, you see why….the ground is covered in petals! I don’t know if its an everyday occurrence or if we were lucky, but there was a religious ceremony outside with drums and dancers.

Flower ladies at the church!

So after the puchase of a typical breakfast in the market stalls, a poncho and a shot glass, we were on our way back to Pana! The ride back…even crazier! I thought 3 people to a seat was a lot, I actually saw a family of 7 on one seat!!!! SEVEN!! Then I could hear this lady yelling, thinking she’s preaching something, but when I look up, I see she’s selling eye drops or something. I’m thinking fat chance lady, but I lost count after she sold 10 to people on the bus! It’s like their version of eBay! Totally awesome!

Yummy CHEAP Brekkie!

The cost of chicken busses roundtrip was 20 Quetzals each which is about $2.60….which beats $12 and gives you quite an experience. Plus 9 bucks gets you FAR in Guatemala!

This doesn't even do it justice!

Category: Central America, Chichicastenango, Chicken Bus, Guatemala, Markets, Panajachel  Tags: , ,  Leave a Comment
Lake Atitlan!
Sunday, January 29th, 2012 /

Chels and I took the one “direct” chicken bus to Panajachel from Anitgua. “Direct” just means that it goes all the way there, not that it doesn’t stop for every person flagging it down.

Kinda looks like Greece!

When we arrived in Panajachel we dropped our bags off at the hostel and headed straight for the shore. We made the walk down the main street Calle Santander which is lined with restaurants, markets and tour agencies. Down at the waters edge, Panajachel offers a great view of the lake as you look out at three volcanos. This is the most impressive thing about Panajachel. In fact we didn’t really find Pana had much to offer. It has absolutely no character and you hardly know you’re at the lake, which is why we went.

Amazing view!

Across the lake is San Pedro. The tiny boat ride across offers stunning views and only cost 3 bucks! As soon as we stepped off the boat, we immediately loved it! The whole town is actually along the lake, so no matter where you eat, sleep or walk…you can see the lake (unlike Pana). It is also much cheaper, and you don’t get the feeling you’re being ripped off just for being a gringo! For example: In Pana, a trip to Copan Ruinas in Honduras costs 280 Q ($35) but from San Pedro, almost FURTHER away it was only 150 Q ($18.75)!  Anyway we found a nice quiet little family-run place to stay, Casa Elena, and it was only 8 bucks a night for a private room WITH a bathroom and hot water :)

Boat ride across Lake Atitlan

We immediately starting searching out the best deal for hiking Volcan de San Pedro at sunrise. We ended up going with Bigfoot Agency because the lady was straight up with us. If it’s just the 2 of us, its 20 bucks, it we find a 3rd person, its 15 bucks! SWEET…we set out to find a 3rd! We ended up finding like 6…2 different couples…all from our boat ride over, so got it even cheaper!
So 2:15 am the alarm goes off, and we eat our 2 loaves of banana bread we bought the night before. Brad drinks his cold coffee he also got the night before, and off we went! Our guide met us at our hostel and we started the journey, passing drunks along the way that were still out from the night before.

To the top just in time!

Just getting to the base of the volcano was tough, but the actual climb up was RIGOROUS! Everyone had head torches, except me haha…I followed the other hikers light and the moonlight…making sure to lift my knees high. About 3 1/2 hours later, we were ALMOST to the top and saw the light of day starting to emerge. Brad raced up to the top for the last 10 minutes, and I moaned and groaned my way up shortly behind him! I was actually MOL-ing (Moaning out Loud) it was TOUGH!!! We lost half of our group to the hill…. But oooooh man the view was INCREDIBLE !!!!! It was 100% worth the pain and the colors of the sky behind the other volcanoes were so bright and illuminating! We were cheering and high-fiving each other in complete elation! The entire lake was beneath us and in our view!

Breathtaking!

In the middle of our admiring, the cold hit! THANK GOD our guide was already building a fire, because it was frigid! Even worse for Brad was that he was completely soaked from sweat…his back and butt drenched! We warmed up for a few minutes while we waited for the sun to peek over the volcano tops, singing songs to help motivate its rise… “Here Comes the Sun”!

Warming up by the fire!

Yay Here Comes the Sun!

The others finally arrived after the sun rise, and we all chowed down on some grub! Peanut Butter Sandwiches and Snickers! Some people brought whole blocks of cheese up! After about an hour and a half on the summit, we decided to head down. The hike down was AWESOME! Now that it was light, we could see the beautiful lush green trees. It was like a tropical rainforest up there! Also we could enjoy the view of the other side of the lake, and all the towns sprawled along it. We were able to walk through a coffee farm and try a bean or two, careful as to not risk being shot for stealing their beans!! lol just kidding. We finished just after 11pm and were exhausted, so after grabbing a smoothie, went straight for a nap!

Tropical!

Woo we did it!

After deciding to stay one more day in this cute town, we spent it relaxing at a super cool hostel called “Zoola People”. It’s Israeli run, right along the lake with a colorful tent full of pillows and tables to chill at. Skyping, blogging, and researching…enjoying their delicious Health Sandwich packed full of avocado! Brad and I find we need one of those days every once in a while, because traveling can be EXHAUSTING! (not complaining!)

Zoola!

Next stop…Honduras!!

Category: Central America, Guatemala, Guesthouses, Hiking, Hostels, Lake Atitlan, Panajachel, San Pedro, Volcano  Tags: , , , ,  One Comment
Antigua!
Saturday, January 28th, 2012 /

When we left the next morning it was still dark outside. As we climbed up the bumpy mountain road, the sun was also making its way into the sky. When the day began to break, the heavy clouds that blanketed the sleepy towns below began to disperse, reavealing the green peaks and valleys; a quintessential Guatemalan sight. As the rest of the bus slept, I took in the breathtaking views one last time, then nodded off. Next stop, Antigua.

Typical Antigua!

The former capital of Guatemala (until a massive earthquake hit), is now a popular tourist destination and it’s easy to see why. Sitting at the base of dormant Volcan de Agua, the town is different from everywhere else in Guatemala we had previously visited. The European influence is omnipresent with the quaint colonial charm, cobble stone streets, lots of cafes and a neat central park.

Cathedral!

The best view of the city is from the Cerro de la Cruz. The walk is for people of all ages, paved steps the whole way and a police presence, making it safe to do on your own. When you reach the top be sure to check out the smoking Pacaya Volcano to the right and allow youself to imagine the possibility of an eruption!

Cerro de la Cruz!

Our experience in Antigua was great, complete with a couchsurfing host to boot. Love (pronouced Loov-eh), was our Sweedish host living in a sweet pad right near the central markets. He led us through the maze of narrow lanes, showing us a few great places to grab a cheap and delicious meal. Incredible as it is, also staying with Love was our friend Alex, whom we met all the way beck in Belize!

On our second day there, Love led us all on a crazy journey up to a surrounding town for a hike to a series of waterfalls. Getting there we hitchhiked in the back of an ambulance which was a first for all involved. The hike in was beautiful. Long groves of coffee plants leading up into the beautiful hills. Chels and I made it to the first waterfall and stopped there. A towering falls but no opportunity for swimming. The guys attempted a hike up the overgrown trail to the other ones while Chels and I had a chill out. We all hitched a ride home in time for a sunset browse at the market to get supplies for our guacamole and chip dinner.. Mmm Mmm good!

Back of the ambulance!!

The boys enjoying the Waterfall!

Antigua is a great town to just walk around, which is mostly what we did when we weren’t riding in the back of ambulances to far off waterfalls. Even though it’s gringo central, traditionally dressed women still roam the streets selling their hand made crafts; and there is no shortage of your prepackaged Mayan-goods markets.

Guatemala is so colorful!

The last night we were there we did a very American thing and got Chilly Cheese fries while watching Alabama beat up on LSU in the National Champoinship game. We redeemed ourselves later that night with a visit to Cafe No Se, a Mescal bar. The bar is a landmark, and modeled after a 1920s speak easy, with a secret door leading to the secluded bar. Mescal is a tequila-esq drink that is sipped and not nearly as harsh. We said our goodbyes to Love there and the next morning shipped off early to Panajachel on Lago de Atitlan!

American drinking night!

Mescal Bar!

Category: Antigua, Central America, CouchSurfing, Guatemala, Markets, Volcano  Tags: , , , ,  2 Comments
Semuc Champey!
Sunday, January 08th, 2012 /

Beautiful Semuc Champey!

Along the Guatemalan travel trail, fellow backpackers gaulk about the marvelous places they’ve been in this vibrant Central American country. A handful of places keep playing up like a broken record, and Semuc Champey is one of them. A natural phenomenon of aquamarine pools that, through years of erosion, rests on a limestone ledge hollowed out underneath by a raging river.
Part of Semuc Champey’s appeal is the journey there. It is isolated and the effort it takes to get there weeds out the traveler from the tourist, requiring a very uncomfortable ride from any direction down the rocky mountain road to the town of Lanquin. Once you arrive here you then have to arrange for a ride to Semuc Champey to claim natures reward.

Hitchhiking with the little Guatemalan girls!

We had the option of either staying in Lanquin or Semuc Champey. We chose Lanquin at this sweet hostel perched up on a hill surrounded by tall mountains and valleys..called Zephyr Lodge. A near 360 degree panoramic view of the landscape is available as you sit in one of the many swinging hammoks around the hostel. We actually ended up staying 3 nights longer than originally planned since it was such good vibes. (and we got the 4th night free! 5th day is Happy Hour all day!) It was a brilliant place to conveless as Chels and I were both getting over our stomachs introduction to Guatemala.

Amazing View!

Best shower ever!!

The hostel was great but just a small part of the overall experience. The feature presentation is Semuc Champey. It’s natural beauty transcends the cultural barriers as people from all parts of the world explore the jewel like pools. We feel, and other travelers have agreed, Semuc gives visitors an energy boost. You leave there with a pep in your step for the rest of that day. Maybe it’s the visual beauty, or maybe the pools have some magical healing properties; either way it was one hell of a place to celebrate the transition from my 25th to 26th trip around the sun!

Brad relaxing in the pools!

Category: Central America, Guatemala, Hostels, National Parks, Semuc Champey, Waterfall  Tags: , , , ,  2 Comments
Flores… y Tikal!
Thursday, January 05th, 2012 /

The ride out of Belize was easier than expected! We took a collectivo to the border where we were rushed with money changers in our face. We actually DID need to change our money and they are on top of it, with American/Guatemalan/Belizian dollars, and a calculator for your own ease. We payed our exit fee and continued on to Guatemalas border. As soon as they saw our American passports, they asked for an “entrance fee” of 20Q each (only about 3 bucks) OR…if you have 5 US each…you can pay that! Ok…we knew this was prob BS, but were willing to pay as long as we could have a recipt! …”Oh…they want a reciept” the guy muttered under his breath to the head lady, in which she proceeded to flip through our passports pretending to look for something, and then handed them back without us having to pay the fee! Hehe oh corruption!

Flores from above!

About an hour taxi ride later and we arrived in a cute little town located on an island in the middle of the lake, called Flores. I immediately loved it – the old uneven cobblestone streets lined with local shops selling colorful Guatemalan gear. Similar to India, the local women in Guatemala actually wear their traditional dress still on an everyday basis! We were staying in a private room in a quieter hostel called “Hospedaje Yaxha” where you can take Spanish classes or eat at their cafe downstairs. Around the corner though was “Los Amigos”, the fun and colorful hostel with a cool garden full of hammocks…we moved there a couple days later!

Los Amigos!

On our way to the only ATM working on the island, we ran into Alex and Outti, our friends we met in Bullet Tree, and immediately organized a reunion dinner in town. Crazily enough, on our way to dinner, we ran into Stav, the other guy we were with in Bullet Tree, so he tagged along and it was one big CS reunion :) Super cheap dinner at the markets in the central square alongside an AMAZING Christmas Tree that lights up as it blares our the theme song to 2001 A Space Oddysey! Haha it was hilarious! Then, along with some other hostel friends, we all enjoyed beers at what became our favorite local spot in town! 3 beers for 15Q (2 bucks)!

Awesome Tree!

Couchsurfers!!

The main reason to visit Flores is as a stopping point to see the famous Mayan Ruins at Tikal. We woke up at 4am to catch the 4:30 shuttle to the ruins an hour away to be there for the park opening. 100% worth waking up, as you can be one of the only ones in the park if you skip the long-line for coffee and breakfast at the cafe they drop you at when you arrive. Unfortunately you cannot climb Temple II, the most famous image of Tikal. It really is just so steep..tourists are bound to slip and fall.

Tikal!

Awesome Moss!

What was recommended to us, and what we will also recommend, is to head straight to the back of the park to Temple IV, the highest temple that towers up above the rainforest canopy. It will most likely by super misty and foggy, but as the sun keeps rising, the fog slowly melts away to uncover the other temples sprouting out through the jungle. The mix of ruins with lush green trees, howling monkeys and talkative birds makes for a mystical experience. You beat the crowds first thing too!

Temple IV lookout!

Category: Central America, Hostels, National Parks  Tags: , , ,  One Comment